What a day. The heat as relentless as ever, and pretty well cooked after an hour long boat ride in and around the island, but all completely fantastic.
Let’s see – breakfast, and then off. First was a tour of the Doge’s palace. Saw it before, but about half of this tour was through a maze of secret passageways that aren’t open to the general public. Hidden doorways in closets, disguised behind wood paneling. The torture chamber. Casanova’s two cells – the first that he almost escaped from by scraping out a hole in the wood floor under his bed. He was moved before he could finish the job. Second cell he successfully escaped from with the help of a priest in the neighbouring cell – this time through the ceiling, disguising themselves as visitors and walking out the main gate. (The neighbouring priest also imprisoned for various decidedly un-priestly acts – those naughty catholic priests, oh dear…). Must get myself the book he wrote about his adventures when I get back (Casanova’s, not the priest – although that would undoubtedly be interesting reading too).
Escaping the heat – good lord, with the tiny little rooms, the old wood paneling, it both felt and smelled like a sauna in there. Every time I go outside my glasses fog up because of the humidity.
Luxuriously overpriced lunch at the Cafe Florian with its 6€ charge for the pleasure of hearing their band – but I was ready for that. You can’t go to Venice and not have lunch at the Cafe Florian.
After lunch, my city tour. This was really fantastic. It started with a boat ride in one of those beautiful, long, wooden taxis. Leaving from San Marco, cutting along various little canals through to the north of the island, past that cemetery island, back in through the canal near where I stayed last year, then cruising the Grand Canal, past all the palaces, under the Rialto Bridge, back to San Marco. The guide explaining the history behind various churches and bridges and palazzos along the way. Best part was there were only seven people in the group, so no crowds, no lines, none of that tourist chaos.
Then it was into Saint Mark’s basilica. My goodness. You’ve never seen so much gold. Every inch of the walls, the ceiling, the domes, covered in tiled frescos, gold leaf everywhere. It positively shimmered. Through the church, up to the terrace looking over the square. Indescribably beautiful.
After that it was an hour’s walking tour from the church to the Rialto Bridge. Taking the direct route, it’s about a ten minute walk, but the guide led us through all these twists and turns, over bridges and under arches. Saw where Marco Polo lived. Completely fascinating perspective – I’d walked several of the streets before, this year and last, and simply passed by so much of it without knowing what was there.
A perfect day, really. Ending with some tips on where not to eat a touristy dinner – on the other side of the Rialto Bridge, I’m told, so that’s where I’ll be heading in an hour or so. Until then, some prosecco, the sun coming in through the window.
Tomorrow, off to the islands!
Italian Summer 